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帝舵的历史

作者:帝舵维修服务中心   日期:2021.03.26

       帝舵表的历史

       History of the rudder Watch

       潜水腕表:从1969年至1999年

       Diving watch: from 1969 to 1999

       帝舵Submariner的第二个历史时代则始于1969年,直至该系列于1999年的产品目录中最后一次亮相为止。尽管此表款以7900系列为基础,但其发展一直未有停步。从技术角度而言,ETA自动上链机芯取代了沿用的机芯。在美学上,帝舵Submariner于1969年更以全新面貌亮相。为符合潜水的确切需要,此腕表不仅装配了独特表盘、方形钟点标记,还配搭收藏家称为“雪花”的指针。这款腕表于1981年前一直可见于产品目录中。而于1976年,品牌则推出尺寸较小的表壳款式。

       The second historical era of the imperial submariner began in 1969 until the series was last appeared in the 1999 catalogue. Although the table is based on the 7900 series, its development has not been stopped. From the technical point of view, ETA automatically up chain core replaces the used core. Aesthetically, the imperial submariner appeared in 1969 in a new way. To meet the exact needs of diving, the watch is not only equipped with a unique dial, square clock mark, but also a pointer called "snowflake" by collectors. This watch has been visible in the product catalog until 1981. In 1976, the brand launched smaller case styles.

       在帝舵Submariner系列的最后岁月,各表款依然融入多项显著的创新元素,包括极抗刮损蓝水晶镜面、凹纹方向外圈,以及不同的表盘和外圈设计。

       In the last years of the rudder submariner series, various tables still incorporate a number of significant innovation elements, including extremely scratch resistant blue crystal mirror, concave direction outer ring, and different dial and outer ring design.

       总体而言,帝舵Submariner系列于1969年至1999年间,合共推出超过20个不同型号,相关版本更是不计其数,而各款均保留了此系列的主要特色。

       In general, the imperial submariner series launched more than 20 different models from 1969 to 1999, and the relevant versions are numerous, and each of them retains the main features of the series.

       1969年帝舵OYSTERPRINCESUBMARINER7016

       1969 rudder oyster princesubmariner7016

       1969年的产品目录曾出现两个新款帝舵Submariner型号──7016和7021,这标志着品牌第二代潜水腕表的开始。在这里介绍的型号7016制作于1969年,蕴藏不少细节特色,当中最瞩目的要算是表盘和指针。此腕表配搭清晰的特大方形钟点标记,并以象征坚固可靠的盾牌来取代了原有的玫瑰标志。至于收藏家称为“雪花”的指针,则结合夜光方形设计,令读时更容易。这个全新表盘不仅易于辨识,更成为了帝舵表的一大特色。

       Two new models of the imperial submariner, 7016 and 7021, appeared in the 1969 catalogue, marking the start of the brand's second generation diving watch. The model 7016 introduced here was made in 1969, which contains many details, among which the most notable is dial and pointer. The watch is accompanied by a clear square clock mark and replaces the original rose symbol with a solid shield. As for the collector called "snowflake" pointer, combined with the night square design, make reading easier. This new dial is not only easy to identify, but also a feature of the rudder watch.

       型号7016的另一主要变化,就是以ETA2483型号机芯取代之前沿用的390型号自动上链机芯,两者的摆动频率均为每小时18,000次。腕表的线条延续了上一代的设计,并配备39毫米劳力士表壳,防水深度达200米;以及圆形表冠护肩、劳力士旋入式表冠和双向旋转60分钟刻度外圈,外圈以5分钟为一格,而前15分钟则以一分钟为单位;腕表还配备附摺叠链节的劳力士蚝式表带。此外,Plexiglas树脂玻璃镜面则由圆拱形改良成平厚突出的设计。

       Another major change of model 7016 is to replace the 390 model automatic chain up core with the eta2483 model core, both of which swing 18000 times per hour. The line of the watch continues the previous generation design with 39 mm Rolex case, with a waterproof depth of 200 meters; and the round crown shoulder protection, Rolex screw in crown and two-way rotating 60 minute scale outer ring, with the outer ring of 5 minutes as a grid, while the first 15 minutes is one minute; the watch is also equipped with Rolex Oyster type strap with folding chain links. In addition, Plexiglas glass mirror is improved from a circular arch to a flat thick protruding design.

       1969年帝舵PRINCEOYSTERDATESUBMARINER7021

       1969 imperial princeoyster datesubmariner7021

       型号7021帝舵PrinceOysterdateSubmariner与型号7016同时面世,不过这款腕表在3点钟位置增添了一个日历功能。小窗凸透镜型(Cyclops-type)树脂玻璃镜面与同时代的其他腕表相同。此外,这款腕表在日历窗上安装了一个放大镜,使佩戴者更轻易读取日期。所示的腕表采用黑色表盘,配搭“雪花”形指针和钟点标记。日历盘有两种颜色:黑色显示奇数,红色显示偶数。

       The model 7021 imperial princesysterdatesubmariner is available at the same time as model 7016, but the watch adds a calendar feature at 3 o'clock. The cyprops type resin glass mirror is the same as other watches of the same era. In addition, the watch has a magnifying glass on the calendar window, making it easier for the wearer to read the date. The watch shown is made of black dial with "snowflake" pointer and clock mark. There are two colors in the calendar: Black shows odd numbers, and red shows even numbers.

帝舵的历史(图)

       型号7021的机芯为ETA2484型号自动上链机芯,附日历盘,磨光修饰,并以圆形日内瓦波纹(CôtesdeGenève)装饰。型号7836蚝式摺叠链节表带,刻有劳力士标志。

       The core of model 7021 is eta2484 automatic chain up machine core, with calendar disk, polished and decorated with circular Geneva corrugated (C 彼 testegen è VE). Model 7836 oyster folded chain link strap with Rolex logo

       1975年OYSTERPRINCESUBMARINER9401/0

       1975 oyster princeubmariner9401/0

       1970年代中期,型号7016被型号9401/0替代,新款腕表采用性能更高的ETA2776型号机芯,其停秒功能,使其能更精准调校时间。这款腕表的表盘和外圈组合共有四种:蓝色或黑色的“雪花”形指针和钟点标记,蓝色或黑色的Submariner指针以及三角形和圆形钟点标记。图示的是1976年版,配备蓝色表盘和方形指针。

       In the mid-1970s, model 7016 was replaced by model 9401/0. The new watch adopts the eta2776 model core with higher performance, and its stop second function enables it to adjust the time more accurately. The dial and outer ring combination of this watch consists of four types: blue or black "snowflake" pointer and clock mark, blue or black submariner pointer, and triangle and round clock mark. The 1976 version is shown with blue dial and square pointer.

       这款腕表备有两款表带可选:劳力士型号7836/0蚝式摺叠链节表带,这表带采用典型摺扣;另一款是劳力士型号9315/0蚝式表带,款式与前一种相同,不过这款表带配备蚝式摺扣(Fliplock),蚝式摺扣是一种伸缩链节装置,即表带的长度能够调节,以方便腕表套在潜水服上。这款腕表的直径仍是39毫米,表壳的线条维持不变。

       The watch has two options: Rolex 7836/0 oyster fold chain strap, which is a typical fold; the other is Rolex model 9315/0 oyster strap, which is the same style as the previous one, but the strap is equipped with fliplock, which is a retractable chain link device, which is the length of the strap can be adjusted to facilitate the wristband in diving Take it. The watch is still 39 mm in diameter and the line of the case remains the same.

       1989年帝舵PRINCEOYSTERDATESUBMARINER79090

       1989 imperial princeoyster datesubmariner79090

       从1989年开始,型号79090替代了未标记日期的帝舵Submariner,原来的Submariner从产品目录中消失,图示的是1993年版。此型号选用蓝色或黑色表盘,并配搭与之匹配的外圈。6点钟位置有防水深度的标注,12点位置则有盾牌标志。Submariner型指针为此表特色。虽然表盘的整体设计会让人想起第一代帝舵Submariner,不过6点钟和9点钟位置的钟点标记已经从长方形转变为三角形。

       Since 1989, model 79090 replaces the undated imperial submariner, the original submariner has disappeared from the product catalog, shown in 1993. This model is made of blue or black dial, and matched with the outer ring. The 6 o'clock position is marked with waterproof depth and the 12 o'clock position is marked with shield. The submariner pointer is featured for this table. Although the overall design of the dial reminds us of the first generation of the imperial submariner, the clock marks at 6o'clock and 9o'clock positions have changed from rectangular to triangular.

       39毫米表壳,防水深达200米,装配ETA2824-2型号自动上链机芯。蚝式钢表带,型号9315/0,配有摺叠链节和蚝式摺扣(Fliplock),刻有帝舵标志。

       The 39 mm case is waterproof up to 200m, and the model eta2824-2 is equipped with the automatic chain up core. Oyster type steel strap, model 9315/0, with folding chain links and fliplock, engraved with the rudder logo.

       1995年帝舵PRINCEDATESUBMARINER79190

       1995 imperial pricedatesbmariner79190

       型号79190在1995年列入目录。这是最后一款帝舵Submariner,这款腕表拥有很多有趣的新特点,包括蓝水晶小窗凸透镜、圆形钟点标记以及凹纹单向旋转外圈。表盘有蓝色或黑色版可供选择。表带为三链节蚝式表带,刻有帝舵标志。39毫米的表壳直径维持不变。图示的型号来自1997年,这款腕表拥有一个当年才出现的新特点,圆盘外圈嵌入了磨光钢制刻度字圈。

Model 79190 was listed in the catalogue in 1995. This is the last imperial submariner, which has many interesting new features, including the blue crystal window convex lens, the circular clock mark and the concave one-way rotating outer ring. Dial available in blue or black. The strap is a three link oyster type strap with the imperial Sign Engraved. The diameter of the 39 mm case remains the same. The model shown here comes from 1997, which has a new feature that only appeared in the year. The outer circle of the disc is embedded in a polished steel scale ring.

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